Ok so this is my setup. Right now I have a 450w full spectrum led. While this light does good on its own I was considering getting something stronger (which will happen eventually) however, I was thinking about supplement lighting on the walls and door. It's a 2x2 space and when scrogged it will keep the plant off the wall. Question is, what would be a good strength to go with that won't do light damage? Should I do strips or panels? Sent from my SM-G965U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
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Which 240w board would you get out of the new ones from kingbrite. I'm planning on getting a few of the 240w panels that are setup longer or end to end VS the side by side 240w board. I'm looking at either 5 or 6 to cover a 3x9. Probably 6 ran dimmed. I just know they have a lot of new options out with the Cree UV and stuff
I run something similar to those. I have 4 of the 240w panels in a 5x5x6.6 tent and pull around 3 lbs per cut. Why run a dimmed light? Wide open man full light in a 3k spectrum. Newest Yuanhui 240w Quantum Qb288 V3 Lm301h Highest Efficiency Hl Grow Light With Meanwell Power Supply - Buy Lm301h,Qb288 V3,Hl Grow Light Product on Alibaba.com
Required wattage for 2x2 grow area is 50 watts per square foot of grow space . Your light meets that requirement...
It's 2x2x4 overall although the plant doesn't use all 4' so let's say 3' that makes 12sq ft and @ 50w per square foot means 600w. 800w @ 16sq ft if you do the full 2x2x4. Those supplement lights look like good options. I was going to lean towards this: But that may not seem like a lot but I fear the light burn. Also, it's a steel box. I have temps to keep under control. Sent from my SM-G965U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Sqft footage has no height factor taken in to consideriration. Your 2x2x4 tent is 4 sqft. A 2x2x2 tent is 4 sqft. A 2x2x50 tent is 4 sqft. Once you start calculating in heigh you're getting cubic volume or what you use to calculate air circulation. My 10x9x8 room is 90sqft all day no matter what. My 8ft ceilings make it 720 cubic feet. This tells me I need a 720 cfm exhuast fan to exchange the air in my room 1x a minute.
I was looking at something like this. I wouldn't mind spending ~30 extra for UV and IR. Just didn't know if it was worth jumping up to the panels with Cree UV and IR. They're closer to $200 per 240w board They have a lot of new options though. Just didn't know if it was worth the newer upgrades they added. $110 per panel is better than $150-180 especially when buying 10-12 And the only reason I was planning on running them slightly dimmed is for efficiency and lifespan of the lights
This is square footage of your tent ,, not cubic feet of your tent ..... You have 4 square feet of grow space , you need 50 watts per square foot with the light your using because its a blurple led grow light . These cheap Chinese full spectrum grow lights have misleading advertisements . They use words like equivalent to 450 w HPS light . So the buyer thinks he or she is buying a 450 watt light when its actually a 250 watt led full spectrum grow light . A true 450 watt LED light would most likely be to way to much lighting for your plants in that small of space You don't need more lighting as in watts per square foot of grow space .
LED lights only run at maximum efficiency when they are running at rated maximum output . Dimming them actually drops the lights efficiency rating.
IDK about those red LED's. I don't use IR or UV lighting. @trojangrower will be able to answer you questions on that, he's been playing with UV and IR for a while now. The lights are rated at 50k hours of run time, they ain't gonna burn out
Normally supplement lighting is adding in certain light spectrums .. Like UV-B light spectrums the last 14 days of the plants life before harvesting to get 10% to 30% more resin on the buds . Or adding in IR color spectrums for flowering cycle
So I'm better off getting 5 running 1200w total for 27sqft sitting right at 44.4w per sqft. Any thoughts on the kingbrite lights with the IR or UV?
hmm, that ain't true bro. There's a light that has been running for over 100 years (not an LED), but they run it using low power. The highest efficiency isn't cranking the lights to maximum, the maxima is nearer 70% (IIRC), but I can look it up in a bit. that makes sense, but I think that UVB is used throughout the grow cycle, not just at the end. but @Headhunterpipes is correct is 50W being enough light per square foot, although, the spacing of the light won't be even. I recommend trying out some HinFlux (or similar) lights. You can pick up (official Samsung) strips at arrow. I will tack on their portfolio onto this email (look up the product number on arrow.com). You know, a 200W driver would be great for four 96-diode strips, but you can do it so many ways with these strips, and suggest snagging a 50W driver on the side, for starter plants. Watch them a bit, the price wavers, although at $25 a pop (for the biggest ones) is a pretty good deal. That's $100 for 384 x LB301B diodes backed onto an aluminum MCPCB. White diodes include all the spectra, but due to light bleach effects (I think involved in PSI napdh regeneration), some photo red (660nm) diodes are added. These shouldn't be expensive. oh, 100 year old lights, here you go: interesting video you know.
oh hey guys, speaking of supplementary lighting, I noticed these guys are opening this month. Might want to check em out. I like the design on their main board, so to take away that hot spot in the center of current boards, redistribute it to the sides. idk anything about these guys though, I just noticed them while looking up efficiencies, but thought to mention. Don't be overtly concerned about purchasing an all-in-one board; many of the supplementary lights (like 660 reds, etc) can be purchased on the side for cheap.
Your area is 4 square foot and you dont need more than 200watts (and even less with new LED). What you are calculating is Cube foot. Lights are rated by the area they can light up, not volume.