So I have two compost tumblers. The smaller one gets organic bagged compost and soil amendments like the egg shells, as well as used compost from previous grows. It gets spun and watered every once in a great while. The larger compost tumbler gets a roughly 50/50 ratio of the small tumbler and composted oak leaves. It is also spun and watered on occasion. The point is that this is a very very low maintenance system once it is set up.
My fabric compost bag. I have two of these. This one is damn near empty. When I started it was full of oak leaves. I have a 2nd bag that I am taking out to a wooded area today and gathering another full bag. I’ll post that image in my organic compost thread. edited to add: As it turned out there was not the thick layer of oak leaves on the ground as expected. When that does happen, fall I reckon, I’ll post pics.
So a couple of pictures showing my potting process which I’ve refined over the years. First some volcanic stone to block the big holes, then pumice, then compost. This gives excellent drainage and stability to the pots. I do this from seedling on up through two pot ups. 3/4 gallon for the first transplant and then 3 gallon if a female brought to flowering. Kept males stay in the 3/4 gallon pots. Having the pumice and compost next to each other and beside my transplant work surface makes for efficient and pain free ergonomics.
why even boil them mate,i take mine to the bar bq pit,toast them to brown both sides for calcium,then take some and burn to a crisp for phosphrus. then take both and place into mason jars after you crush them a bit,when you finish that cover the top of your shells with vinegar,then you just watch . each day go and thump the jar,if you have any bubbles ,there not ready when you thump that jar and not a single bubble is there ,you then have liquid calcium and phos,much cleaner for indoor plant feeding ,just my opinion,really dont matter the end game is the same . i have done your way also ,but never boiled them,i cook them then crush to powder,then when i plant,i dig my hole,and make a slurry with 2 tbsp of shells and enough vinegar just to make the slurry ,then i put that in hole cover with 2 inches of soil then same 2 inch of compost them finish off container with soil and the transplant,works wonders on tomato plants and blossom end rot
I mention why I boil them earlier in this thread, but to sum up: Not everyone has a bar bq pit, myself included. I boil, toast then toss the shells into my 1st stage compost bin. It seems to be far easier than what you describe and fits well with the way I make compost.
oh wee no way mama let me do that in the house,she about killed me when i broke her blender crushing shells hahah
stuff goes a long ways ,i made mine about 2 years ago and still have half container full of each,shre bought me some them bottles you squezze and has the measurment on it,
Nope. I’m pretty busy myself. Finishing up a birdhouse today, then mounting in a tree. After that I have some home AV electronics to trouble shoot, maybe some art later. If you look at my grow journal, one of the stated goals is very low maintenance.
I hate to be a Debbie Downer, but... That recipe is incorrect. What that produces is water soluble calcium. Cal-phos is made with bones. I even checked my Dr. Cho books. Egg shells contain next to no P, generally around ~.3% by weight. "Most good quality eggshells from commercial layers contain approximately 2.2 grams of calcium in the form of calcium carbonate. About 95% of the dry eggshell is calcium carbonate weighing 5.5 grams. The average eggshell contains about .3% phosphorus and .3% magnesium and traces of sodium, potassium, zinc, manganese, iron and copper." VM69/VM013: Concepts of Eggshell Quality