This started as a Hydro journal, but due to some newly planned vacations during the grow cycle, I’ve decided to stick with Organics. I’m finishing some plants in 5 gallon airpots that were vegged 3.5 weeks then put right into flower. I needed some medicine and I couldn’t wait. Those plants also had a minor spider mite problem around week two of flower so I’ve treated with azamax twice, as a foliar and sprayed the top of the soil. I also did a massive defoliation to deter and get rid of any remaining mites. With about 3-4 weeks left to go, I’m not sure they’re going to finish. I’ve been top dressing with fresh ground MBP, Kelp/Neem, and Kelp/Bone Meal, alternating once a week in flower. I use aloe powder with every watering as a surfactant and once a week I alternate between Recharge microbes and Photosynthesis Plus. They’ve received an SST from sprouted alfalfa seeds in early flower, and an SST from sprouted super sweet corn last week (mid flower). Banana FFJ is fermenting as we speak for next week. I’ve included BioAg Ful Power once a week as well. Now for the plants in veg. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I tried supercropping the two Gorilla Bananas (Expert Seeds) in 15 gallon fabrics. I failed. The stems were really thick and it had tight nodes so I couldn’t really get up the stalk to far to make it a gradual bend and I broke them. Two mains on one plant and only one on the other. Good thing I had a few extras growing, ao I grabbed the best looking SFV Lemon Kush and another Gorilla Bananas, and replaced both plants. They were only in the pots a few days so it was an easy swap. SFV Lemon Kush (Sweet Seeds) Gorilla Bananas I’m hoping to veg these for another month or so while the plants in flower finish. If I can get them shaped right, I’d like to give them each they’re own light. One under 600 watt Vividgro FlowerMax and one under 8-qb120’s, and 2- qb 96 elites (600 watts). On to the seedlings Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I had these seedlings in the DWC nursery I made a couple days ago. I transplanted them into solo cups of an airy seedling mix with a tablespoon of Dr Earth Homegrown 4-6-3 between the 6 cups. 4- Monster Genetics strain: Pebbles, 1- Ethos Genetics Rainmaker, and 1- FastBuds LSD25 auto. The plan is to veg these through the finish of the current flower cycle, as well as the next one, 12-14 weeks. They will go to one one gallon for a month, 5 gallon for a month, then into the 15 gallon fabrics for another month before heading to flower. I will also continue with essential oils in the diffuser a couple times a week (peppermint, tea tree, lemon eucalyptus, and oregano), as well as once a week IPM, which consists of alternating Azamax and Bonide Pyrethrin. If I see any bugs, I’ll add Natria Insecticidal Soap www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-AzaMax-Organic-Control/dp/B004Q2K31Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=azamax&qid=1576627768&sr=8-6 www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035HA0AK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00364PEFS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title We are maintaining about 70F and 60% RH in veg. That’s in the sweet spot for VPD. I am by no means a professional soil grower so any advice or critique, fire away. I know enough to get these plants to harvest, hopefully, but have always been lacking density and therefore yield when compared to my Tupur DTW Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I do like the Dr. Earth home grown blend. It’s got alfalfa in it and a bunch of other good stuff. Are you trying for a no till approach in the 15 gallon fabric? Or just want to mess around with soil? Do you have a silica product you can supplement? May help with the density. I usually find that density is more of a genetic trait but there are somethings you can do to increase the density of your flowers. The Grow Show: No Till ROLS Stealth Spare Room part II: Return of the NuteLess Sent from Uranus, with love
I usually just stick with ROLS. Dump the pots after harvest, add some microbes and light amendments, and stir it up to break down the roots before cycling it back in. In your experience is no till better? I have glacial rick dust, and oyster shell flour for silica. Sometimes I add silica blast to the water during veg too. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
There are probably ten other people who would answer this question better than I can (elrancherodelux, Scooby, prepper, tl.og, dreadhead, and some other guys who are very wise sages in the organic section and specifically the no till revisited forum) However, From what I’ve come to understand ROLS and no till are one in the same. When you till and break up the soil you disturb the microbes and the soil structure. This is my first run with no till/ROLS so I guess I’ll know more when I cut my plants and transplant the next batch. The few growers I know who do no till and have their organic techniques down pat have some of the nicest buds I’ve ever seen, nice structure, dense, tear drop calyxes and sticky icky goodness. Seems like you are pretty close to no till you’re just tilling in between? I choose to go a size larger than needed with my pots so I’ll have room for mulching and a slight increase in media when I transplant new plants into the containers. I guess, Whatever is easier for you but I can’t imagine breaking those up and reamending and tilling them is any easier. Sounds like a pain. It may seem like it makes sense to re amend your mix by tilling nutrients into the entire blend, but chelation is a superior means to providing your rhizosphere nutrients. Only so much of what you add in the form of amendments will be readily available for the rootzone. But when microbes consume and then break down those molecules into the smallest components so they are easily uptakeable by the hyphae and the michorhizzae network that feeds the roots, it’s the best way for your plant to meet its nutritional requirements. Moving to no till from coco was a big leap of faith for me and although this is my first run and I’ve supplemented with a few bottled products I had lying around (mostly because I figured the microbes wouldn’t have a chance to chelate all the nutritional needs for my plants so o gave them a little nectar for the gods to make sure they got everything they needed as well as my aloe, coconut water, kelp paste, MBP, LAB and an occasional AACT/ECT the results I’ve gotten so far are pretty astounding/ pleasing and I dont think I’m going to be disappointed in the final result. I’m also reading up on KNF and planning on making some ferments so I can add them into my no till regiment. But moving to no till from coco for me was primarily a way to cut costs, increase quality and decrease unnecessary work. The Grow Show: No Till ROLS Stealth Spare Room part II: Return of the NuteLess Sent from Uranus, with love
Maybe I’ll give no till a shot this time. 15 gallons is enough, I’ll just order a couple hundred red wigglers, and throw a handful into each pot, and some red clover to fix nitrogen into the soil. I was always worried about the soil having too many old roots and being compacted. That’s why I dumped it out and broke it up. I’m not in good physical health so those pots are a bitch to move as is. I have them on rollers. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Just make sure you get your aeration right and if anything just add a little extra. At least 1/3 aeration. But the roots will aerate the soil as well and the worms will break the old ones down over time. As well as enzymes from MBP. I only put about 6 worms in each pot but they may have reproduced by now. I have some soil mites that eat fungus gnat larvae, some pot worms, and who knows what else. Need to get some pill bugs but so far my ladies are looking happy as hell. 15 gallons is a lot, these are the biggest pots I’ve ever used. My containers only have 15 gallons of material in them and I rolled the extra fabric over like a sock, just wanted some extra room to hold my mulch layer. Bought my fabric pots from 247garden for about $3.50 each and am pretty happy with them The Grow Show: No Till ROLS Stealth Spare Room part II: Return of the NuteLess Sent from Uranus, with love
Coco is interesting because it is so porus and dries out pretty well. I put a little in my mix just because I had it and I like coco. Some advised against it because it will spike my k levels when it begins to break down but I have less than 8% coco all together. Had a hard time finding pumice. Ended up finding it thankfully and used about 7.5 cubic feet of pumice, 2.5 cubic feet of perlite and then I used prommix which had some more perlite and then one cubic foot of bio char. My mix was also light enough whereas I probably could have planted right into it, I did wait about a week, till Santa’s beard began to grow and then I went right in. Every time I top dress I add in a little more aeration material as well. I want to get some rice hulls and do a full mulching with them for the initial aeration and eventual silica addition. Currently my mulch layer is a mix of deciduous leaves from outside, some cat mint, basil, and cannabis leaves with some neem mixed in as well. But that probably sank right down after multiple waterings. It is a pain to move the mulch layer when I top dress but it is also pretty cool to see how decomposed everything is and look at the living soil surface. I’m about to calm Down with my inputs for the next few weeks. Just gave them a heavy EWC tea with bat guano, neem, kelp, silica some aloe and fermented banana juice also threw in 25 ml of PK boost and 3 grams of shooting powder into 16 gallons of water because I have them lying around. You should have Just started week four today. I’ve been foliar feeding daily and this is where they are now. The Grow Show: No Till ROLS Stealth Spare Room part II: Return of the NuteLess Sent from Uranus, with love
Good no till video. He speaks about feeding his soil and worms and beneficial bugs in the soil not the plant. Sent from my SM-G892A using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Since I’ll be going to Hawaii in March with Mrs. S2C, I’d like to visit a KNF or No Till cannabis plantation. Anybody know where I can find one that’s willing to show me around? I’ve searched on google briefly and found nothing so far. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I just ordered all the fixings for a new No Till mix for four 15 gallon photos and trying out three 7 gallon No Tills for autos (the Dutch Passion comparison here on GC) Going all in now. My mix will be 10-12 cu ft total 3.5 cf Super Coarse Perlite 3.8 cf bale of Promix HP w/ Mychorrhizae 30 lbs EWC 25 lbs Chicken Manure 25 lbs Ancient Forest Humus 25 lbs Biochar 6 cups each: Neem Insect frass Oyster Shell flour Gypsum Crab shell MBP 10 cups each: Kelp Bone 24 cups Azomite/Glacial Rock Dust mix I have 1000 red wigglers to split between the pots and Crimson Clover as cover crop. I ordered 25 lbs of BioLive for Top Dressing I will also be spraying once a week, alternating Azamax and Bonide Pyrethrin (both organic) as IPM. @scOObyDOObie @Organic sinse @Smokey B McBongwater @Possuum @GrowingAndShowing @Skunk_smell_isn’t_me Anything I’m missing? Should I charge the Biochar with LAB and /or compost tea? I have a lot of Maple leaves I wanted to use as mulch. Should I mix with LAB and EWC to inoculate? Would something else be better for mulch? Thanks for any help or advice guys. I’ve grown organically for years, and usually end up using some flower boosters to cheat. I’ve never grown in No Till with KNF though. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Yes. I grind it fresh and top dress through the grow. I have some ready to go in my soil mix Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Awesome, this is something I can easily source locally so I definitely want to use it when I mix up the next batch of soil.