Let's Build a Nutrient Temperature Controller for $35!

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by jakesterjammin, Oct 3, 2012.


  1. Maybe a lose wire :confused_2:
    Cause I went to mine, kind of twisted it around a little and temp stayed steady...

    :smoking:
     
  2. I hit up ebay.ca for one of these and can't find any of the 220v in North America……I may have no choice to order from China………booooerns!
     
  3. Ya, I noticed that to. You can buy the 110 volt one, just make sure it has 10 amp relays. There is at least one of those on there in the US. Later on, when I'm around my computer, I will post a link.
     
  4. Yeah... I ended up with the same thing. 110v. Just made sure it was the 10a
     
  5. Oh sweet, so that will still run the same as a 220v. CD, did you end up ordering a second one from the states? I'm guessing you fried the 220v from China? How long was shipping anyways?
     
  6. Yeah, the second time, I ordered form the states and it came in a few days. Dont have the link on me... id have to hunt down my email confirmation for the info.
     
  7. It's all good, just as long as the 110v 10a system works I'll order it. Figure this will help me with night temps and day temps connected to a heater and and A/C right?
     
  8. I only have it hooked to my cooling fan for now. I had the space heater on it, too... but it really didnt do much of anything other than waste electricity.

    Ill have to up the ante on my heater for next winter, but for this year, its no longer needed.
     
  9. Nice, yeah I'm hoping I won't be needing it for the next run. It's still some what cold where I'm at.

    What are you using for a cooling fan?
     
  10. Just a 180cfm fan pulling through my filter. :confused_2:
     
  11. Ah that's cool....I've got a 6" 540 I believe. I'm hopeing that plus an a/c will help keep 2600 Watts under control.
     
  12. Yeah... Ive only got a small tent to worry about. Your room is much larger than mine wiht many more watts.

    Ill be at 1200w total if/when I expand.
     

  13. 6" blowers are tops 440cfm and 98% of the time 400cfm...

    2400w (four 600w lamps) with one 6" blower on the end raises my 8'x11' chamber's temp 1 degree every 2-3 minutes...
    If I pull 15c air through the lights, I get 1 degree raise every 7-8 minutes.....

    As time passes, the heat saturates the metal of the hood, and that time drops every hour or so.....
    So when the lights first fire up, it takes say 12-15 minutes, after 3-4hrs it only takes 7-8 minutes, near the end of the 12hrs, it's wanting to do a heat dump like every 3-4min......


    I had to add another blower to the front of the light bank..
    Better air flow doubled them times and allowed my chiller to keep up so I do not have to dump heat anymore...
     
  14. Once again thanks for the great real world first hand info! As of right now I've got two 600's and one 1k at my disposal. My plan was to grab another dimable 1k and I'd set each 1k over a 4x4 screen, then right next to the 2 screens have one 3x3 screen single plant with a 600 over that.

    Not sure if I'm biting off more then I can chew but I'm hopeing this will work out. 3 diff strains with their own res RDWC. I'll make sure to add the extra 6" blower JJ....seams to me like this will keep temps at bay?

    We can move this to my thread if you like?
     

  15. OK I see what you're going after.....

    Ya, that's not going to work IMHPO....
    Does the 1000w have an 8" hood by any chance????

    The way I'd do this....
    Put the two 1000w lamps in 8" cooltubes and a 8" 720cfm blower behind them..
    Then the two 600w, use the 6" cooltubes with the 400cfm blower you have now....


    In any case, the two 1000w lamps will need a front and back blower with the 6" or 8" hoods/tubes....
    The two 600w lamps you may get away with just one 400cfm blower......
    But IMPO you're not going to be able to daisy chain them all even though you're eliminating the back pressure..


    It's a higher setup cost, but it's going to be MUCH MORE efficient in the long run...



    :wave:
     
  16. I've got two 6" silver star hoods right now, and was planning on grabbing two more. The extra 600 I'm not using right now needs one and the next lamp I will buy will need one as well.

    hmmm a front a back blower…….I've got a 12" duct fan that probably only produces around 300cfm or less right now as well.

    I'm almost thinking that instead of grabbing another 1k just go with another 600? Put the 1k over the 4x4 screen, two 600's over the other 4x4 screen and one 600 over the last 3x3 screen. I'd like to daisy chain them all since I want to grow along the one back wall. So I'm thinking grab a 8" and set it up as follows:

    8" blower exhaust>duct>hood 1>duct>hood 2>duct>12" duct fan (about 300cfm)>duct>hood 3>duct>hood 4> 6" blower>a/c unit?

    Does that make sense and do you see that working Jake?
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Won't work because that 300cfm is going to slow everything down....
    It's a booster fan, so it's meant for airflow which is below 300cfm, well that 8" is going to get more than 300cfm through 2 lights...
    That booster is going to become more of a restriction with the 8" in the front....


    So look at it this way......
    6" 400cfm through the 1200w, then that will drop the cfm more than 100cfm, so now you're below the 300cfm booster...
    That 300cfm booster fan bumps it back up to around 300cfm again, and then the 8" pulls at about 1/2 its rating....

    Because if you take a 8" blower add a reducer to a 6" intake, you just about cut that 720cfm in half...
    Well, maybe took away 25-30% of its efficiency, so you're back to about 500-550cfm.....


    Maybe use......
    6" blower -> duct -> lamp -> duct -> lamp -> booster fan -> duct -> lamp -> duct -> lamp -> duct -> 6" blower...
    With that IMPO you should be able to maintain at least 300-350cfm through the lights....
    "Should" work fine and the way I'd go if faced with the choices......


    :wave:
     
  18. Great info so u would rec if I'm buying 2 cool hoods go with the 8" and don't reduce it to 6", but it should be fine to run the 6" duct into a 8" adaptor. If that makes sense.
     
  19. You drive a car right?????
    So what happens when it's rush hour bumper to bumper traffic and the road goes from 8 lanes to 6 lanes...... :confused_2:


    If you're buying, I'd go with the 8" hoods....
    You can use a 6" blower on 8" hoods with a reducer and not effect the cfm, but not the other way around...;)


    :wave:
     

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