ISO-3 The Quartermaster -- Alchemy Class

Discussion in 'Concentrate Tools' started by PsychedelicSam, Apr 6, 2017.

  1. I had sent an email to BerkLab about the bulbs and I just received a response. I'm just going to post his response to the bulbs since it also mentions the heat source as we were discussing earlier.

    "We've been getting the bulbs at Orchard Supply (OSH) and ordering them by the case from the internet. You can search "incandescent light bulb" on Amazon and there's numerous offerings. We have used GE soft white 100 w (uses only 72 w; brightness 1270 lumens) from OSH. We have recently found incandescent bulbs on Amazon designated as "rough service." These should work wonderfully and last a long time as they are made for use in factories, traffic lights, etc. We really like the light bulb concept as it has served so well for many decades, but if we have to we'll consider other heat sources as the machines go through their evolution and improvements."

    He really likes the thread and the direction it's taken but he's unable to participate in cannabis dedicated forums for business reasons, the reason "hops and herbs" are only used for the marketing. He'll stay tuned, though, and pass along any tips through myself.

    I think my next little project - now that I've gone through the frustration and learning experience of the 80 proof - will be to take what I've learned and apply it to 151. That's going to be what most will be refining and it should be much easier to do now that I've learned the hard way. I'm trying to get the basics out of the way early and hopefully this one won't be a week-long project. :rolleyes:



    "
     
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  2. Very cool to see a thread about these.
    Been to rough to so much full extractions been just some quick ones
     
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  3. Hi, there, Perf. I've been wondering how you were doing. :wave:

    Yeah, we're trying to figure out how to work these things. Hopefully, by pooling our experiences there will be a quicker and better learning curve. A team project. I'm so glad it's not just me because there's so much to learn. It brings home the point that I don't know as much as I might think I knew. :blink:
     
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  4. After reading the issues you guys were having with the screws in the heat sink, I emailed the company to inquire about the unit I have, and the problem with the screws, as I have serial number 05 so I figured I was in the same boat
    here is their response:

    Mary Ann tells me you have an older unit she saved for you with a lower serial number.

    We have found that these screws are best removed and thanks from input from our testers we have come up with a better method for anchoring the spring clips, which makes the screws unnecessary. This can be fixed by simply tightening the screws down hard in the condenser. Once we have the new condenser perfected we'll gladly exchange the new ones for the old ones.

    by the way, please relay to your friends on the forum who have the Iso 3 that as soon as we have the updated condenser unit finalized we'll gladly swap them out for free. It's thanks to input like we are receiving that will enable us to always make sure that our products are as good as they can be.
     
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  5. No. 5 could have some value on the Antiques Roadshow in another 40 years, a collector's edition.

    This is one of the reasons that I wanted to start this thread. It's so much easier to brainstorm something with several brains instead of individually spreading out our feedback so that it just trickles in from here and there. It's good to know it's working. :thumbsup:
     
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  6. I just found a leak at one of the screws in my heat sink. It's leaking slowly and runs down the exterior of the bowl and into the evaporation chamber. I believe it just started and hasn't been playing a role in my refinement problems. I'll try to tighten it up but I may be in for a rusty bolt, too.

    In the meantime I'm going to shut down my attempt to finish refining the 80 proof all the way through 190 and rethink it. It's been two days since I've recovered any of the higher proof alcohol and that was minimal. I've spent too much time on it and need to take a fresh assessment. I'll just chalk this up to experience and begin anew. egyptien2 (2015_10_01 04_32_03 UTC).gif

    I'm also considering extending the bolts that the springs attach to further into the base of the unit in order to provide a stable and consistent stud on which to rest the main container. The vessel will rest on the stud on each side with the o-ring adjusted to that level. From there you would be able to adjust the bulb to the optimal level for the function being performed. That way you'll know exactly how far the bulb is from the container without messing with a lot of tape measuring. Just a thought at this stage.
     
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  7. Computer went out and I knew I'd just really mess my migraines up on this tablet much. Nerve blocks n meds hopefully soon I'm praying and maybe fix the compuker too
     
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  8. my first batch has been running for the 24 hours suggested time and I checked on the progress a couple times. The herb is still very green and the alcohol dripping out of the extraction basket was still green tinted so I don't feel the extraction is complete.
    I am thinking my issue is one of two things... Instead of using the small round filter included and building up the sides with unbleached paper towels, I just used a very large coffee filter that I had to cut down a bit. It was too big for the extraction basket and I had to fold it over itself a few times on the sides... could the extra filter paper be soaking up the alcohol and it not dripping through the herb properly?
    The other thought is the height of the processing vessel. I don't read this anywhere in the manual. The large O ring that goes around the processing vessel is what holds it at whatever height above the heat source you wish. If I had the processing vessel too high up, then the heat would be less and it would take more time for full extraction.
    couldn't this be used to control temps? have marks on the processing vessel to show height from heat source rather than using a lower wattage bulb or rheostat?
     
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  9. pushu, my spent herb never turned a straw color. it did lighten up considerably when I exchanged the alcohol/oil mix for fresh alcohol to decrease the saturation of the alcohol. I'm sure I'm not reaching the saturation point of the alcohol, but after adding fresh alcohol and running it overnight the alcohol dripping from the reaction chamber turned clear. After I reclaimed the alcohol from the spent herb the herb turned lighter, but never reached a hay type color.
    Those are some good thoughts on using the height of the processing chamber to control the heat. I'm going to look into PSam's moving the spring screws to hold the vessel in one place. I've ordered a three prong incandescent bulb dimmer. I'll see how that works.
    Thanks for passing along the info on the new condenser heads, pushu. I have the rusty screws and though they sent me new ones I've been afraid to take the condenser apart to change the screws. I also had some mineral buildup from using tap water. Now as PSam suggested I'm using distilled water which I could make myself if I wasn't busy turning ounces of poor grade material into something more concentrated.
     
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  10. I was wondering the same
    Why do they not have a fixed height for the container sits in the heat ex-changer (let Sam suggests lengthening the bolts) My unit has the screws also.
    So I too will need a new one when they come out,
    The O-ring just does not cut it, and what height is proper for the o-ring to be
    If the light moves no need for the container to move also
     
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  11. Just so you know
    Mine is ser #1101 or close and I still have Frankenstein bolts in heat chamber too.
    There is a sticker on the bottom that say use 75 watt bulb too LOL
    Sam
    The dome on top composed of the discs (flying saucer Top piece) has 4 smaller bolts sticking down form the bottom dish.
    Are these the ones you had a leak on?
    I wonder why they are even there, maybe to keep the top from settling over to far one way or the other.

    I had my foot go out yesterday also
    Spent to much time standing . hoping that it is only a short injury
     
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  12. Well, we don't want you getting migraines, do we? Hopefully you'll be able to get those cleared up and your computer fixed so that you can participate and feel better. Hang in there, Perf. peace (2015_10_01 04_32_03 UTC).gif
     
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  13. #93 PsychedelicSam, Apr 9, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
    For me, the extraction went off without a hitch just like it was supposed to. Maybe it was luck. I believe that I was reading that standard paper coffee filters didn't have as high of a flow rate as the 12" filters provided and if you have a lot of trichome husks and other small particles, they clog the coffee filters. We should probably find out the type and texture of the ones they sent so that we can replace them when needed.

    That processing vessel was what I was referring for stabilizing it on the bolts that come through the base that the springs clip to. The only reason they're there is for the clips so it shouldn't be any problem with replacing them with ones that are an inch or so longer and then they'll provide stability to the vessel and keep it at a consistent level. The bulb at that point can be raised completely and be about a half inch from the bottom. Then we can set about getting consistent temperature ranges and you won't have to move the o-ring up or down. :)

    Mine is # 34. I had looked on the bottom several times and never noticed the tags. Going blind, I guess.
     
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  14. It's the height of the o-ring that has been bothering me, too, with the alcohol proofing. It was difficult to know how close I was from the top of the bulb. Too high and the vessel too low you'll have it touching and I don't think that would be good. Or the bulb might get pushed down further since it's not very tight and moves easily. Those bolts would keep it at 1.5 inches from the top. The bulb at it's highest point is about a half inch above those bolts but that's the extreme and the operational range would start about a half inch lower than the bolts and work down.

    I'm going to take one of those bolts to Home Depot today and pick up a couple of longer ones and see how they work. :mellow:
     
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  15. Yeah, those are the ones, Stiggy. I don't see a function for them at all. I use them as a measure for the water in the heat sink. The manual says to fill it within an inch of the top of the bowl and that is right above the head of those screws. I was trying to determine if I could use the water level to give me a clue as to when that session would be complete. That seemed to work sometimes but not towards the last phase.

    My foot is still giving me fits although I can now get around. Don't do like me and keep pushing it until it really gets bad. It's been nearly a month for my injury and maybe a month more to go. I hope yours is just a passing inconvenience. smiley on crutches (2015_10_01 04_32_03 UTC).gif
     
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  16. Do yourself a favor And get Stainless bolts
    Also The light bulb moves up and down on an angle correct
    Nothing to loosen just pull or push on the bulb correct (mine move that way)
    I figured there my have been a thumb screw that loosens and tightens as you move the bulb Guess not
     
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  17. #97 STIGGY, Apr 9, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
    LOL
    Its hard to tell at this point about the foot I will know more tomorrow when I wake up
    It is hurting but I have been walking when need be trying to take it easy but we know how that goes.
    Feel better Sam
    I am holding off doing too much of anything and still looking for my Jar of sugar trim.
    I will find it.............................
     
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  18. Yes, you just push or pull the bulb up or down but the higher it gets the more off center the heat and at the top it's all the way over on one side. It seems that it would be more efficient in the center for more even heat. Extending those studs should correct that.

    I just got back from the Depot and they just had 2" machine screws in 6/32. I don't think that's going to be quite long enough so I'll probably see if I can find an Ace and get 3" ones. Those should be just right. :)
     
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  19. #99 STIGGY, Apr 9, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
    Better LOL
    dam small buttons
     
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  20. It was one of those cases of hitting the wrong button just like Joker did a couple of time. I greatly dislike this new "like" system. I can barely see them. The whole color scheme of the forum sucks for me and it can't be changed like the previous version. Thanks for mentioning it. :oops:
     
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