wonderfull thread dude i lerned alot from this and relized last grow that using the canna recomendations was over feeding them and this grow have went alot easyer with the nutes but still with what ive just read i still been over feeding so down comes my ec again from 1.2 to 0.8. thanks for the great info southernsmoke ! rep! peace
I have a question about this, would LC's mix be considered a high quality fertilized soil? ( 5 parts peat, 3 parts perlite, 2 parts worm castings) with some crushed oyster shell added as a ph buffer I ask this because when I tested the run off of this mix I got a ppm of about 1320...that's an EC of 1.8 if I'm not mistaken (I divided by 700) So should I also follow this rule of feeding at around 0.8 EC during flower? That's 560ppm I believe EDIT: I'd be using Advanced Nutrients three part grow, micro,bloom plus a few of the additives.
yeah man, that sounds like a great soil mx. as far as the PPM i think this guide is a good starting point. You can always go up with the nutes if need be.. your plants will let you know for sure. a lot depends on strain, environment, lighting etc.. so start with the 0.8 and see how it goes.. it's way easier to add more nutes han to have to flush out salts and fix PH issues if you add too much.
I have a Iconic Grow bottle. Tap water is 128 ppm/.3 EC and with 1ml/L its only going up to 158ppm/.3~ EC. With full recommended soil dosage, at 5ml/l it only goes up to 250ppm/.5~ EC. I know the hanna combo (black one) is calibrated right, I did it twice yesterday and again did it today because I was baffled. Did Iconic change their formula since the post?
^^ possibly man.. i'm not really familiar with that product. but if your meter is calibrated, than you should be good to go
terrific post August W. I'm a soil grower. never thought much about what chem nutrients I was using. Never ever followed the manufactures instructions. I feed my plants like I feed myself, a little bit every 14days. After reading this post I will buy a meter and pay more attention. I have been growing for decades, but the many folks and posts at grasscity have convinced me to clean up my act and try new things.....if I can just put down this spliff.
Very nice post, my first grow I used those little osmocote time-release pellets. I still like them but I used way too much at first. They made up seriously like 25% of my soil but the plants hung in there until harvest even though they were seriously stunted...
[quote name='AugustWest']I thought i'd pass some info along that really helped me as far as feeding my plants. The info was taken from the Mandala Seeds website, so all the credit goes to Mike. 3. Do not stretch commercial soil with a lot of perlite/vermiculite/hydroton/coco coir etc. This only reduces the amount of available nutrients. Don't fill the bottom of the pots with stones/hydroton. The roots grow down and need a substrate that holds water at the bottom. Good potting soil like Compo Sana Universal already contains enough additives for a balanced air-to-soil ratio and roots get plenty of oxygen. If you are growing outdoors in very compact soil then you should add 20-25% perlite for a better air-to-soil ratio. Hello AugustWest, Could you please explain the bold underlined sentence. I was always told to put stones in the bottom of the pot to ensure drainage. Would you please explain this course of action. The benifits ect. I am getting ready to transplant a few plants and I need this explained please. BTW great post. Thanks for getting it in here. MG2
wow for a site thats suppose to be about fertilizing wisely theres no real info on wise fertilizing.All the bitches wineing about this and that sure have alot of time on there hands maybe they should try growing some herb instead of just bullshitting about it.Ive been growing herb in soil and hydroponics since the 70s and still have problems with fertilizers and plants every crop.Every crop seems to act different in one way or another as its impossible to maintain exact conditions every day for every grow.The one rule i live by is less is better in veg until the last week then i usually bump up to manufactor specs.Same with when i transition I always give a flush with water when in soil(water in res. only for hydro for 24 hrs) then feed with transition specs while plants get 36 hours of darkness then after first 12 hours of light flush with ph 6.5 water then start bud feed low dose at first then gradually increase depending on plant reaction to fertilizer.My 2 cents worth make a man millions
^^ no offense.. but if you've been growing weed for over 40 years and are still having fert issues, then you may want to revisit the way you grow weed. you should be pretty dialed in after 40 years of growing..
ive got the fertilizer down all im saying is everytime i start a new crop something is different from the last crop.Always have to change something up a bit whether iit be changing the percentage of 1-2-3 adds for gh solutions etc.Theres always little tweaks and never seems to get the same amount of bud from the same amount of plants.Its always changing mostly for the better but sometimes plants just dont do what there suppose to do when there suppose to do them
awesome dude, so well said. i know what he means by "things always change", but i have found most people dont want to even pH test, let alone EC and ppm. so, it sounds to me like he does not want to do the extra work to dial in a process. my one grower friend has been growing for about three or four years now and he tells me a few weeks ago that he has never actually tested his tap water for pH or EC or anything. wow....
I was listening to the Free Weed podcast from High Times with Donnie Danko today and he was saying to stay with veg nutes for the first 2 weeks of flowering. Anybody else heard this before? I always went 50/50 veg / bloom right when I flip the timer on. I always take the advice from these celebrity growers with a grain of salt. Sometimes they spout some weird crap but this one got me wondering.
^^ i wouldn't give veg nutes for 2 weeks of 12/12 usually just that first week is fine and should be plenty of N to take them through assuming you start with good soil.
hey aw ive been reading your post for almost 2yrs before deciding to get online & ask u a question.i had read a post about u using bannana peels to help improve fem can u point me to it i really need to know. i cant find it keep up the good work & thanks foe the help
Hanna makes a dope ass water proof, digital pH, ppm, ec temp meter. Its not cheap but mine is about five years old, works great and is a must for hydro. I had to replace the probe once because it shattered but I got it ordered right on ebay and it came lickity split.