So I ran into this specific training technique by accident about a week ago. I didn't know it was a thing until after I tried it and did some digging. I've done many successful grows throughout the last 2 decades but I will confess that I NEVER trained my girls. I more or less would just let them grow in their wild form with minimal training. So in this go around, I wanted to focus a little more on yield. I was attempting to tie these girls down but in trying I ended up snapping a few tops (saved some time there, I guess) which scared me away from completing the mission at hand, haha. I have an irrational fear of failure so I just stopped with the LST right then and there. Well, the main stalk hardened making it difficult to continue with the LST without supper cropping it. And I didn't feel quite ready for that. So what I did instead was pigtailed all the lower branches (tied them down in 2s and tucked under growth) and gave them ponytails. But after reading a little more on it I realized 2 things: 1. This technique seems to be used mostly for autoflowers. I take it since it's considered an even milder form of LST? 2. I also found that I was doing this technique a bit different but not sure if the tweak is even calculable as I did not tie in the lead nodes to the ponytail but gently pushed them to the side so that they could continue to receive light. Now I am wondering because from what I've read, the reason you don't want to pony tail your trees for an extended period of time is due to the auxin not reaching the lead nodes during the process. But if my lead nodes are still being exposed to light, should I even worry about auxin levels? The top seems to be stretching out equally and just fine. I've begun tying down the lower branches that have peaked out since then because I'm assuming this is the best LST I'll be able to perform, again, unless I want to supercrop. Any input and opinions would be greatly appreciated!! 170245493_193455255702725_558467881274319442_n by StudioGREENsdca posted Apr 9, 2021 at 4:01 PM 169848264_468647171050404_8405444715746659846_n by StudioGREENsdca posted Apr 9, 2021 at 4:01 PM 169558426_1103608153479987_8264573941143705765_n (1) by StudioGREENsdca posted Apr 9, 2021 at 4:01 PM 169966268_139430564791728_4292582830648314874_n by StudioGREENsdca posted Apr 9, 2021 at 4:03 PM
Your plants need more S&M training and you need to be up to the task. This is usually applied to old hardened stems when you really don't want the plants peaking over a fence top. Grab top of plant in left hand, With pliers in right hand start crushing the main stem where you want the bend. Keep lengthening the crushed zone and pulling her top over. 12 inches or more of crush may be needed. Fluids flow past the crush and the top keeps right on rocking along. A "Snap" usually kills everything above it. Tie the top down in the new orientation as it will do it's best to stand back up. BNW
Dont be afraid to beat the shit out of them. Like the other guy said- crush stems so they dont snap when you bend them. My girls after a heavy training session End result I dont know if i will continue to do this much training, It was cool filling a 5x5 with 4 plants but its a lot of work. I could have spaced out 3 seeds in each pot, topped them once, and use the trellis to spread them out. It would have saved me 3-4 weeks of veg time which is a good amount of electricity.
Woah I don't have 12 inches to give yet lol The biggest one tops at about not quite a foot. Do you guys think they're growing a little slow? They all measure roughly around 10 to 11 inches errr ~26cm and are about halfway into their 3rd week under 600w MH & 600w LED @BrassNwood @420JoeBlow
There is another method a grower here used to good advantage. Catch And Release. She'd pull the top below the side branch she wanted to accentuate.until the auxins transferred and that exploded as the new top. Then she'd untie the actual top and push it over the other way and enlarge the next side branch in line. Grew out some impressive plants and never sniped a tip. BNW