When building my tent setup, I was shocked to not find any ready made options for a sufficiently sized intake. So I decided to (over) engineer my own and thought I’d share the build and results. FYI I will try to CAD up the wooden pieces here as soon I can and edit the post when I do. But otherwise, I’ll outline how I came up with the rough estimates until then. Finished product first Purchase list: - 10” Horticontrol Dust Shroom - (2) 10” HVAC Duct elbows - 10” HVAC Duct Connector - Paintable caulk (pay attention to dry time, some takes weeks) - 2’x4’ 3/4” Plywood - (4) Heavy Duty Adjustable Leg Levelers (optional) - ~5’ 3/4” Foam Window/Door Adhesive Seal - (8) 5/8” Self Tapping Screws - 1” Adjustable Nylon Strap - Flat Black Spray paint with Primer - Wood glue Total cost was around $250 Step 1: Twist and arrange the two elbows to create this twisted s shape. Then attach the connector to the end that will go in your grow tent intake port. Screw all the pieces together with at least 3-4 self tapping screws around each connection. NOTE: If you have a lot of light in your room, you may want to add a 3rd elbow to add even more bends. In my room with a single outside window, with no blinds, it was sufficient to not see any light in the tent. Step 2: Use the caulk to seal all the connection points and twistable seams. You could do this on the outside, but I preferred doing on the inside seems but it’s purely for aesthetics. This caulk will help hold the shape of the twists and seal out any outside air. Step 3: FYI: CAD plans to come soon Mark on the 2’ side of the plywood, the height where you want the stand sides to sit. This takes some trial and error as you need the sides of the base to between the center and side of the intake port of the tent. On a Gorilla 2x4, this was at approximately 10.5” if using the leveling legs. The sides should be about 9” apart, so 4.75” from the horizontal center of the tent port. The width of the side along its bottom is about 18.5”. The outside height is approximately 12.5”. Now lay the HVAC pipe on its side with about 2.5" overhanging. This is the end that sticks through the tent port. Trace along the flat edge up the first slope. Going past at least the second joint in the elbow. This will be angle for the duct to rest in. I made a small notch at the start of the slope where the first joint rests in to keep the duct where I wanted. I also made a small 1” wide and 1/2” deep notch to allow the nylon strap to tighten everything together later. I cut the first piece, and then traced in on the opposite side of the plywood to create the second leg. Next create 3 horizontal braces approximately 3”+ wider on either side of each stand side. This makes them approximately 16.5”+ long and 3.75”+ wide. Again, it might be easier here to create one and the then trace it for two more. Next using some Playatech design cues, cut the notches as seen above to slip the braces into the sides. The notches will be about 3/4” wide. I used the plywood braces and traced their width. I made the notches in the sides. On the stand sides I cut the notches 2.5" inches deep and 1.25" deep on the braces. Finally all the pieces should fit together to make a reasonably stable stand where the inside distance again is 9” apart. Use wood glue to hold everything together permanently. Step 4: After the caulk has dried, paint the ducts flat black. On the inside this will reduce the light that can get into the tent and on the outside because it looks cool. NOTE: Be sure to wash off the duct thoroughly. Any grease or oil on the duct will make it impossible for the paint to stick. I learned this the hardware and had accidentally gotten oil from test fitting the dust shroom. One nice thing is flat paint blends easily, so any mistakes can be touched up later with a little sand paper and extra paint to blend. I highly recommend letting it dry overnight to prevent damaging the paint. Step 5: And paint the stand black and line the top edge with window foam to add some friction for the duct to sit against. Step 6: Optional: add some side mounted adjustable legs to fine tune the fit to the tent. I accidentally miss measured the side heights and these allow up to ~1.5” of mistake, lol. Step 7: Attach the Shroom Cap. This thing was very oily and so it takes some time to slip on and tighten down with the included hose clamp. If you've let your duct paint dry at least over night, it should wipe off any finger prints you add. Step 8: Finally wrap around the 1" strap to hold everything in place. Be sure to only tighten enough to keep it from moving. The duct is aluminum and will very easily bend out of shape into the stand.
that stand is much better than my stack of dvd and blu-ray covers I use to hold bits up ...lol I do know you can get some useful tent addition types things at your local upholsteior or sadderly
I originally was thinking a nice net/pantyhose would work until I started reading the posts on here pointing out the need to keep both bugs and light out. I was just surprised that I couldn't find a premade contraption to handle both. I assume someone could make a much more compact and lighter plastic version that would be much cheaper to mass produce. Seems like a gap someone could easily make some money on.
Looks cool dude. Little overkill to get a filter in place. Does your exhaust have enough suction to pull through it.
It is definitely overkill. I'm running an AC Inifinity Cloudline T6 and it does a great job of pulling the air through. When I was researching intake size, the general consensus I found was 10" in for 6" out. I use setting 4 when its off to keep negative pressure in the tent to prevent any smell leaks and ramp it up to 8 when it exceeds the temp or humidity thresholds.