So here is a weird one. Day 10 of my clones. Last two time i cloned ive been at 100% success rate. I just checked today and only half of my pucks are showing roots. Could this be because I took them a few days after I flipped to flower? Usually I take them before I flip the timer but I was having a space issue and I had to shut the lights off on the mothers of these clones. So then 3 days later I took clones. Any thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes unfortunately that is a variable that will definitely affect the rooting process. The plant was told to go into flower and then right at that point where she will begin stretching, you’re like “syke! Just kidding. I need you to be in veg.” It’s confusing and they will probably root but take longer. Also, they will need about two weeks to recover and re-veg. There is a term for what you did. They are called “monster cropped clones” and some people do it on purpose because they say it forces the plant to change the internodal structure, thus making the bud structure different and hopefully more desirable than what it was before. It can result in taller colas and deeper canopies. But all it takes is growing a re-vegged clone once and you’ll stay away from monster cropped clones (if you can avoid it). They are difficult to train, and you get a lot of 1-3 fingered leaves. It just takes too damn long for the plant to go back to veg and start producing 5-7 fingered leaves again. Most growers don’t have that kind of time especially when trying to maintain a perpetual cycle. Hope that helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So what will happen if these clones survive and I take clones from them in veg? Back to business as usual or will I be fighting these now? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes exactly. Once a plant goes through reveg, she will stay in veg as long as the lighting cycle is right. All cuts taken from her will be business as usual. Some people say that the "first crop" of a strain will always be the best one, and if it goes through a reveg, she won't produce quite as well as the first time. Maybe the terps will be different, maybe the yield, maybe the appearance, maybe the internode, etc., etc. The ideal perfect situation is to keep a mother of your best phenotype and keep her in a state of perpetual veg connected to her "first crop" that way you always have cuts that perform as well as they did the first run. I don't know how much scientific truth there is to any of what I just said, because I haven't researched it for myself. I'm just putting it out there because it is a possibility, and it is certainly probable.
Well I do know my seed mother vs clone mother produced a better product. I saw it as the grower. The consumer is non the wiser. Even if they think they are haha. Thanks for the help Cookie Monster Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Clones taken at beginning of flowering cycle is an exercise in futility. Always take them from the flexible tops of the "sucker" branches, three nodes from the base of the plant when lollipopping. Sent from my moto e6 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
The best cuts are on the top where the new growth is. I see a lot of belief(s) on this forum that the best clones will come from the bottom of the plant, and yet the opposite is true. The growth on the top of any plant is the healthiest and most vigorous, and they will root faster and more consistently than cuts taken from the bottom of a plant. If you're taking what was stripped from the bottom while lollipopping in order to get whatever cuts you need, well, that's just smart common sense. There's no reason to remove or disrupt a potential main bud site for a cutting when you can use what is going to be stripped away from the plant and tossed away anyhow. But when you cultivate a mother plant and the entire plant was vegged specifically for producing clones from that phenotype, then the uppermost chutes / branches on the plant are the most coveted because they are going to be the most healthy seeing that they receive infinitely more light than any branch sitting low on the plant. Top cuts have a better chance of staying green throughout the propagation cycle with little to no yellowing of the leaves (assuming the lighting is adequate). However, because they have not received adequate lighting, bottom cuts are more likely to have leaves that will turn yellow and die/fall off during the rooting process, and they also will be more challenging to harden off when it's time to take them out of the humidity dome. The belief that cuttings should always be taken from the bottom of a plant for any other reason than simply not wanting to distrupt the plant's potential canopy to make a clone is just not true. Besides, when you take top cuts, if you time it right, you can top your plant and get your cutting(s) at the same time instead of always topping as soon as you're able to top a branch. Why not top your plant and end up with 20 or 30 vigorous, healthy cuttings at the same time? That's how we do it at my shop.
I understand your point, but you increase yield when taking suckers off instead of tops. They will sprout roots, especially in DWC... Sent from my moto e6 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
You increase the yield even more by removing tops. It’s called topping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk