I have a few DWC grows under my belt using GH nutes and their feeding schedule. I'd like to try AN Perfect pH Micro, Grow and Bloom because of the promise to automatically control pH, but I take issue with AN feeding schedule which is essentially the same dose of each of the 3 nute solutions from start to finish. GH schedule suggests differences in doses as plant advances from seedling through harvest. So why not differences of doses in AN feeding program?? Thanks for your input. GGL Sent from my SM-T720 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Not sure if any nutrient programs are ever PH perfect, too many variables. My friend did a DWC using the AN perfect 3 part stuff and a few other boosters, grow went to shit for him during early flower his PH kept plummeting, probably had a lot to do with his res and other factors, but yeah he had smoother sailing with the general hydro stuff, I know it was like 4x cheaper
Advanced Nutes is a rip off and not all its cracked up to be....in fact none are..80% of em is water essentially.. a terrific mix is House and Garden Aqua Flakes A & B It's designed for DWC use & I rate it highly Cal Mag also is required Include some root cleaner/sterliser such as SLEEPS WITH THE FISHES or HYDROGUARD. NOTHING ELSE IS NEEDED NO BLOOM JUICES NO SNAKE OIL BOOSTER 30% BALONY CRAP.... Nothing Just use aqua flakes, cal mag, sleeps with fishes Adjust pH DAILY NO NUTRIENT IS pH stable, They'll all need adjusting as water pH will always be different week to week from any tap in any country. Change reservoir weekly & flush the system prior to new nutrients The cleaner everything with the system & grow is, the better success with DWC. Run no higher than 600ppm or 1.2EC & they'll be fine. Need more advice, please ask & I'll explain more
You are seeing a lot of the vuudoo shit reflected in the feeding schedules in these nutrients solutions. A couple of thoughts 1. The whole automatic pH control this is a bit of a misnomer - They are using a buffering agent that they claim will stabilize your pH but you still have to participate in pH control your self. The concept is of buffering agents is a legit thing it's used all the time in biochemistry labs for all sort of advance chemistries - there are molecules that can stabilize the pH of a solution by releasing and absorbing H+ (hydrogen ions a.k.a protons) however they work with in a certain range, for example phosphoric acid is a fantastic buffer between the pH's of 6.2 - 8.2 but as soon as you leave those ranges the pH TANKS or SKY ROCKETS and has to be brought back into the range. The idea with the 'Perfect pH' stuff is that you can get your pH to 5.8 and the buffering agents will take on the H+ ions for a bit before the pH goes out of range and then you have to get it back in range. The down side to this strategy is that you have to add more pH up or down than you would normally thus adding to your EC reading to adjust that buffering agent back into the range you need, the up side is that you're nutrients will stay in solution MUCH longer and you don't have to watch your pH like a hawk. I use citric acid as my buffering agents and that work well for 3-4 days before I adjust with 5 Molar HCl. 2. The nutrients schedules are all over the place and it's annoying as fuck. I would recommending taking a look at as many nutrients feeding regimens as possible and just see what's out there. I've found that those schedules that have a 'Clone/seeding phase' nutrient solution and then switch to a 'Vegetative phase' growth solution that stays constant through out the flowering stage and bloom stage are the easiest to control and honestly give me great results.